How to Fix Drywall Anchor Holes: Remove, Fill, Sand, Prime

Quick answer: How to fix drywall anchor holes comes down to two jobs: getting the anchor out of the way, then patching to match the hole’s size. Pull a plastic anchor out or tap it just below the surface. Trim loose paper, fill small holes with joint compound, bridge medium holes with crisscrossed strips of joint tape, and cut in a new piece for anything over 2 inches. Sand, then prime before painting.

Anchor holes look worse than nail holes. Anchors spread inside the wall. Pull one out roughly and you often get a crater with a torn paper rim.

That’s fixable. I’d just match the method to what you’re actually looking at, instead of smearing spackle over everything. When I sort anchor damage, it falls into four buckets, and each one gets its own repair.

Why Anchor Holes Are Harder to Hide

1. The anchor is still there. A plastic sleeve or metal wings left proud of the wall will show through any patch. Every time.
2. Torn face paper. Pulling an anchor often rips the paper around the hole. Fuzzy paper raises up under paint.
3. Crumbled gypsum. Expanding anchors can crush the core, so the hole may be wider inside than it looks.
4. No primer. USG says its primer equalizes surface porosity and texture differences. Skip it and the patch can show as a dull or shiny spot.

Step 1: Deal With the Anchor

Get this part right first. Bob Vila’s guide breaks removal down by anchor type:

• Plastic expansion anchors: back the screw out about 1/4 inch, grip it with needle-nose pliers, and pull the screw and anchor out together. If it fights you, take the screw out and push the anchor in instead.
• Threaded anchors: turn them counterclockwise slowly. If one won’t budge, remove the screw and push it through.
• Self-drilling toggle anchors: loosen the screw so the internal toggle drops, tap the head a few times, then pull. Push it through if it won’t come.
• Molly bolts, toggle bolts and strap toggles: these may have to be pushed into the wall cavity.

Can’t pull it? Recess it. Tap the head below the surface with a ball-peen or tack hammer.

Bob Vila warns against a regular hammer, which can do more damage. Cutting the anchor out with a utility knife is the last resort, because it leaves a bigger hole.

Step 2: How to Fix Drywall Anchor Holes by Size

These methods come from USG’s repair instructions for Sheetrock panels.

What you see	USG method
Small hole or dent	Trim loose bits, fill with joint compound, recoat if needed, sand and prime
Torn face paper only	Peel loose paper, skim coat with compound, second coat if needed
Medium hole	Coat the edges, crisscross 2 or 3 strips of joint tape, embed, then coat twice
Hole over 2 inches	Cut out the damage, install repair clips and a new piece, tape and coat 3 times

Small Anchor Holes

1. Trim any loose paper or crumbs from the hole and wipe it clean.
2. Fill it with joint compound using a putty knife.
3. Let it harden. If the spot looks dished once it’s dry, add a second coat, as USG allows.
4. Sand smooth when dry, then prime.

USG calls its Easy Sand setting-type compounds ideal for repairs. They come in working times of 5, 20, 45, 90 or 210 minutes, so a 20 or 45 lets you recoat the same afternoon.

Torn Paper Around the Hole

Peel away any loose face paper first. Gently. USG says to skim-coat the damaged area with joint compound, feather it smooth, let it dry, add a second coat if needed, then sand and prime.

Don’t sand torn paper hard. In practice, scuffed paper fuzzes up and telegraphs right through two coats of paint, and then you’re back with a knife and a tub of compound fixing the fix.

Medium Holes From Heavy-Duty Anchors

1. Trim loose pieces and wipe the hole clean.
2. Apply plenty of joint compound around the edges.
3. Crisscross 2 or 3 strips of joint tape over the opening and press them into the compound.
4. Let it harden, then cover the taped area with a coat of compound.
5. Let that harden, apply a second coat, then sand and prime.

Holes Bigger Than 2 Inches

USG’s method here is a real repair, not a fill. Honestly, it’s less scary than it sounds. Cut out the damaged section, slip drywall repair clips onto the edges, and screw through the wall into each clip about 3/4 inch from the edge.

Then screw a cut-to-fit piece of new drywall to those clips, snap off their tabs, tape all four sides, and apply second and third coats, letting each one harden before the next and feathering every coat a little wider than the one under it so the edges vanish. If you need new board, our guide to what size drywall screws for 5/8 drywall covers 1/2 inch board too.

Step 3: Sand and Prime

Sand lightly with a fine sanding sponge until you can’t feel the patch edge. The trick is to close your eyes and run your fingertips across it; your hand finds ridges your eyes miss under flat light. USG warns against roughening the face paper while sanding.

Then prime. Always.

USG’s First Coat primer is a flat latex made for the first coat over gypsum, and the company says it’s not a finish coat. My take: spot-priming patches is easy to skip, and it’s the step that decides whether the wall looks repaired or new.

Older Homes: Check for Lead Paint First

Don’t skip this if your house is old. If your home was built before 1978, EPA says it may have lead-based paint. Sanding or scraping old paint around an anchor hole can make lead dust.

EPA recommends having a certified inspector or risk assessor test first. If you do the work, mist the surface before sanding, scraping or drilling, cover the floor with plastic, use a HEPA vacuum, and clean up with wet disposable cloths.

When to Call a Pro

Call a drywall contractor if the damage spans more than one stud bay, if the hole is from water damage and the board feels soft, or if you find wiring or pipes behind the hole. For any sign of active leaks, find the water source first. A patch won’t hold on wet board.

More wall repair and paint guides are in drywall and paint. If you’re about to hang something heavy in that same spot again, I’d skip a fresh anchor altogether and find a stud, because a screw driven into solid framing is the sturdier choice and won’t leave another crater when the shelf, mirror or TV eventually comes down.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I just push a drywall anchor into the wall and patch over it?

Yes. Bob Vila’s guide says to remove the screw, tap the anchor head below the surface with a ball-peen or tack hammer, and patch over it.

Is spackle or joint compound better for anchor holes?

USG’s repair steps use joint compound, and it recommends its Easy Sand setting-type compounds for repairs. Joint compound also works with tape, which you need for medium and large holes.

Why does my patched anchor hole still show through the paint?

Usually it wasn’t primed, or the patch has a ridge or dip. USG says its primer equalizes porosity and texture differences. Sand flat, prime, then repaint.

How long should joint compound dry before painting?

It depends on the product and the room. Setting-type compounds harden on a set schedule; ready-mix compounds dry by evaporation. USG notes drying time varies with temperature and humidity, so follow the bag and make sure the patch is fully dry.

Last updated: November 10, 2026. Sources: USG Sheetrock installation and finishing guide, repair section (PDF), Bob Vila: how to remove drywall anchors and EPA: lead-safe renovation for do-it-yourselfers.